Two Cultural Events in One Week

This week we had the pleasure of participating in two events that allowed us to learn and experience more of the local culture.

Mid-week we went to Granada for the opening of "The Edge of Forever," an exhibit of photogravure prints. As a part of the opening, architect and Spanish history expert, Rafael Anderson, gave a lecture about the agricultural, religious and political history of Granada and the Alpujarra. As we listened we delighted in the intellectual stimulation, but also in the knowledge that we are briefly passing through this place that has a rich and ancient history. We felt great pride in our opportunity to be present on this land for a relatively short time, perhaps leaving a small imprint among those of so many who came before us. 

In any direction that we look we see evidence of earlier inhabitants; in the terracing that defines the hillsides, in the ancient acequia channels that bring water from the high mountains so that livestock and crops can survive the hot, dry summers. The numerous ruins and stone walls that punctuate the Alpujarran countryside provide glimpses into the lives of those who once lived here. And many of the hiking trails we enjoy were once mule paths used to transport silk, honey and other goods.

A glimpse through the broken door of a ruin

Reminders everywhere of those who lived here before

Friday night we joined our friends and went to the San Antón festival in nearby Soportújar. They picked us up at our gate at 7:45 and we rode together down the mountain to this small village which clings to the hillside. Soportújar has a population of 296, but it is a vibrant community. The festival of San Antón centers around huge bonfires of olive wood that symbolize the burning of any bad luck from the previous year. We arrived before the fires had been lit so stopped in at the town bar for a drink and some tapas. Clearly the central meeting place in town, we entered a festive atmosphere as many others were also beginning their evening the same way. Each time someone entered the bar there were warm greetings called out, and hugs and kisses shared throughout the room. The kids quickly found school friends and were off playing.

By 9:00 the fires were blazing and we went out to the village square to join in the celebration. 

Getting the party started

There was live music and multi-colored strobe lights reflected off the front of the church. Free food (hunks of pork on huge slices of bread) was distributed and a selection of drinks flowed from a seemingly endless supply. 

Dinner

There was such joy in the faces of those around us and soon many people were dancing. I loved seeing very old couples dancing next to young people and before long a conga line snaked its way through the crowd. 

People of all ages dancing

Conga line video


Several teens tucked behind the shadowy corner of a building where they, tentatively at first, and then more boldly practiced their own dance steps with each other. 

Teens finding their own private dance space (check out the lit-up shoes!)

And all the time the small children played on their own. Our friends' kids are nine and five and for well over an hour we didn't see them at all. But in this community there is no reason to worry as everyone watches out for everyone else and the kids are truly being raised by a village. I wish that words could capture the spirit of openness, joy and kind acceptance that we experienced. 

When we walked back to the car near midnight it was clear that the festivities were just getting started and I suspect that the dancing and celebration went on through the night. 

Delivered back to our gate we walked down the drive with only the light of the near-full moon and billions of stars, some shooting across the sky above us, and once again we marveled at our good fortune to be here.